Preparing to climb Mount Shasta

  • We will meet you at our shop at the specified time (usually either 8 or 9am) on the first morning of the climb. We will conduct a thorough equipment check, distribute group gear, address any last minute needs and details, and proceed to the trailhead.

    Shasta Mountain Guides

    305 Chestnut Street
    Mt. Shasta, CA 96067

    530-926-3117

    The closest airports are Redding, CA (RDD) or Medford, OR (MFR). The closest major airports are Sacramento, CA (SMF) or San Francisco/Bay Area (SFO).

    We do not provide transportation to the trailhead. There is limited public transportation in the Mt Shasta area and a car is very helpful. Climbers drive themselves or carpool with others. Guides drive separately. The drive to the Bunny Flat Trailhead (South Side Climbs) is 12 miles via the paved and plowed Everitt Memorial Highway and the climb starts here at 6,950 ft. Climbs on the North or East side require a 1-1.5 hr drive on occasionally rough Forest Service roads.

    There may be opportunities to carpool with other climbers to the trailhead. Due to complexities in our scheduling, we cannot arrange carpools in advance. Guides will help facilitate a carpool during check-in. If you carpool with other climbers, there is ample overnight parking available in downtown Mt Shasta. We can store valuables or extra equipment at our office during the climb

  • If possible, we recommend arriving at least one day prior to the start of your climb. Time can be spent organizing your equipment and rental gear and a light hike to break up the travel stress. Please do not arrive late to check-in, this impacts the entire climb team and may adversely affect the summit attempt.

    We recommend staying in Mt. Shasta the night of our return, especially on climbs with a planned summit attempt on the final day. If you hope to travel directly after the climb, expect to be very fatigued and plan accordingly. It is generally not possible to fly on the same day we return from the mountain.

    Please make sure your schedule is not too tight. An extra day or so off work is well worth making the most of this amazing experience. Not having post-trip travel constraints allows for weather and logistical delays, and our climbers and guides can focus on the goal of climbing the mountain. Please refer to the itinerary when planning your trip.

  • We recommend travel insurance to cover delays, interruptions, cancellations, lost baggage, etc. The American Alpine Club has some good climber-specific options and benefits. Alternatively, purchase through your airline, automobile club, travel agent, or directly through a provider like Allianz or Travelguard. Make sure any policy doesn’t exclude activities like hiking, mountaineering, climbing, etc. There are no refunds or credits and travel insurance can help with unplanned disruptions.

  • There are a great variety of accommodations in Mt. Shasta. Some recommendations:

    • Summit Lofts Mt. Shasta. A newly refurbished boutique hotel located downtown, walking distance to our shop and across the street from the Fifth Season. They offer a discount to our climbers.

    • Cold Creek Inn offers a discount to our climbers. They are clean, basic, and centrally located on the north end town, close to our shop and near a train crossing.

    • LOGE Mt Shasta They offer hotel, hostel, and camping options, have a great outdoor space for gear organization/packing, and a cafe and bar on-site. They also offer our climbers a discount.

    You can also refer to the local Chamber page Visit Mt. Shasta for additional recommendations.

  • We will supply tents, stoves, kitchen equipment, drinking water and hot drinks, summit passes and permits, ropes and climbing harnesses, emergency first aid, repair, and communication equipment. Each climber supplies their personal gear; clothing, backpack, sleeping bag, and climbing equipment.

    Everything on the equipment list is essential for your comfort, safety, and summit success. Please read it carefully and arrive properly equipped or be prepared to purchase or rent locally. If you need rental equipment all of the items on the list marked with * can be rented at The Fifth Season – advance reservations recommended: 530-926-3606.

    Your backpack will weigh approximately 40-45 lbs. We will all share in carrying the supplied gear items for the carry to base camp. (This will include a portion of a tent, stove, food, etc. and will add 8-9 pounds to your personal equipment.

  • Our meals are hearty, nutritious, fresh, and organic and we can accommodate most diets with advanced notice. We’ll provide dinner and breakfast. We do not provide lunch/snacks, so bring plenty of your favorite foods for the hike to base camp, climb nutrition, and rest breaks. We recommend bringing snack foods that have a variety of carbohydrates, proteins, fats, salts, and sweets. Please see our equipment list for detailed recommendations.

  • Gratuities for mountain guides are customary in the United States. As with other service-based professions, after the experience, it is generally recommended to tip your guides 10-20% of the trip cost, depending on your level of satisfaction with their service. Our guides accept cash (ATM’s nearby), check (to the guide), or electronically (Venmo, Zelle, Paypal, etc)

  • Mt. Shasta is less than 200 miles from the Pacific Ocean, stands over 11,000’ from the valley floor, and is the largest (by volume) mountain in the US. This unique topography results in dynamic winds and storms, and problematic forecasts. Weather forecasts for Mt. Shasta, especially automated computer models a.k.a. “point forecasts” are notoriously unreliable. An accurate forecast is usually not available greater than 24-48 hours in advance. We have climbed to the summit many times where 3-5 days prior to the climb, the forecast seemed unfavorable.

    We do not cancel our trips based on weather forecasts and will operate rain, snow, wind, or shine. Certain weather may influence our final route selection, and adverse weather may hamper our summit bid. We continually monitor the weather, consult numerous sources prior to your climb, but generally prefer the Mt Shasta Recreational Report, which is issued by local NWS forecasters familiar with the mountain. All routes and weather conditions can still create wonderful opportunities for learning new skills, adventures, and great memories.

  • Training is essential for safety, success, and enjoyment – Take responsibility to be physically and mentally prepared for the challenge; your training program should be started well in advance of your trip. Not being prepared can affect the whole team, and put yourself and others at risk. Plan to be in your very best physical condition before a summit attempt.

    Training should concentrate on endurance, strength, and mobility. Hiking on steep, hilly terrain as often as possible is the best way to simulate mountaineering. Carrying a pack during these hikes will pay the most dividends in preparing for a climb. Consult your doctor before starting an aggressive training plan or new activities. We recommend working with a coach to gain the most reward for your efforts. CasavalPT and Outdoor Adventure Training are recommended by SMG

    The more you put into your training program in advance, the more you will be able to enjoy yourself during the ascent. Climbing requires stamina, conditioning, and preparation to make it safe, successful, and enjoyable. Neither Shasta Mountain Guides, nor any outfitter, can guarantee a successful summit bid. Some individuals may not be able to complete this strenuous climb.

    Mountaineering is a unique activity unlike any other sport in which we may participate. Challenging terrain, unlimited views, and difficult climbing awaits. An open mind, positive attitude, and adequate preparation will all contribute to a successful trip. We try to remember that mountaineering is about the journey and to be satisfied with our high point. We want you to be safe, to have fun, and to achieve your goals and will do everything in our power to help you accomplish this.

    We hope you are excited and motivated! Train smart and eat well! We look forward to climbing with you. Please contact us with any questions.