What Gear do you need to mountaineer?

Mountaineering boots are required. Backpacking and hiking boots are not sufficient for the climb. Many climbers rent boots with great success from the shop in Mt. Shasta.

We hike to basecamp in our mountaineering boots – an additional pair of hiking boots is unnecessary.

In general, mountain boots can be broken down into 4 categories:

• all-around/general purpose (sometimes called 3-season) mountain boots, double boots, lightweight alpine boots, and supergaiter boots. All-around boots are generally preferred. The Scarpa Mont Blanc, or La Sportiva Nepal Evo are good picks in that class. These versatile general-purpose boots are guide favorites and are better for climbs that have extended snow and ice, including at basecamp – such as May and June climbs on Shasta. If purchasing a first mountain boot, one in this class is a good buy.

We require an expedition/mountaineering sized – (65-80 Liter) internal frame pack. Examples include the Gregory Denali or Baltoro, Osprey Ariel Pro 70 or Aether AG 70; Mountain Hardware AMG75 or similar packs. Packs are also available to rent at the Fifth Season in Mt Shasta if you prefer to rent vs. buy.

We do not bring a smaller, secondary “summit pack”. We use our main backpacks for the summit attempt – we remove the top panel (aka the “brain”), store it inside the pack body, and use the side compression straps to shrink down the profile. We leave the tents/camp setup, and break it down after the summit attempt. For the summit attempt our packs typically weigh between 10-15 lbs.

During basecamp approach and descent our packs will weigh 40-45 pounds depending on personal gear. We all carry a portion of the group gear (food, etc), so expect to add 10-15 L of volume and 8-9 lbs. weight to your pack.

With lightweight personal gear, and careful packing, a 60-65L can work, especially if it has lots of outside lashing options, and an external crampon pocket. If you already own or have your heart set on a specific 60-65L pack, we can make it work, but packing will be more of a challenge. Although sometimes marketed as sufficient for multi-day trips, a 50-55L(or less) pack is way too small for a Shasta trip. We consider them in the technical daypack category, or suitable for lightweight backpacking.

Important! Down/synthetic fill. Medium heavy weight. The down/synthetic puffy insulated jacket is required for all trips. It is fit to be worn over all your additional layers. It should be lightweight and compressible but very warm. Good examples include Black Diamond Cold Forge and OR Super Alpine Down Parka.

Lightweight puffy jackets like the Patagonia Micro Puff or similar are not sufficient but may be substituted as the mid layer instead.

Step in crampons are preferred, hybrids are OK. Rentals are widely available in numerous types/models to fit various boot types.

Good examples include the Grivel G12 or G10; Black Diamond Serac or Contact; and the Petzl Vasak or Irvis.

10 point models are sufficient, 12 point models can be more versatile for more technical mountaineering. Steel is preferred for most trips. Aluminum crampons are fine for ski trips and early season mountaineering trips. Please test and adjust your crampons prior to the trip. There is no universal attachment standard, so not all crampons will fit all boots, and vice-versa. Full strap crampons are not generally recommended, but if they fit the boot securely, and the boot is appropriate to the conditions they’ll work OK. We do not allow soft/flexible backpacking, hiking, hunting, or very light alpine boots combined with full strap crampons. Even if you can attach a crampon, you still need a stiff sole/shank to support its use.

The ice axe is required for all routes, and should generally be 60-75cm depending on your height. It can be shorter and more lightweight for ski trips. Rentals are available.

Good examples include the Black Diamond Raven or Raven Pro; Petzl Glacier or Summit, and Grivel G1, G Zero, Nepal SA, or Air Tech. Steel picks are preferred, aluminum is fine for ski trips/early season. A leash/tether is not required – we will typically ask you to remove it, and rentals do not include one. We teach maintaining good control of the axe, rather than relying on a tether. The exception is for complex glaciated routes like the Hotlum Glacier, where tethers are used for the unlikely event of a crevasse fall.

The classic method of sizing was to hold the axe in the self arrest grip at ones side, with the arm relaxed. Previously the adage was that the axe should extend down to ones ankle. We feel that this results in an unnecessarily long (and consequently heavy) axe. A less savvy climbing shop employee may still try to fit you this way so buyer beware.

Lately the trend has been for an all-purpose axe to be a little shorter, extending down to boot-top or even mid-calf for experienced mountaineers. The technical trend is for collapsible ski poles to be used with crampons in more low-angle terrain instead of an axe. As such, the axe does not need to be long enough to be used as a cane or walking stick in low-angle terrain, and is only removed from the pack for moderate to steep terrain where a slip/fall and self arrest is a concern.

As you gain experience with footwork, technique, and estimation of slope steepness and resultant need for an axe, you’ll find yourself using the axe less in lower to moderate angle terrain, and your ski poles more. Consequently you’ll eventually prefer a shorter axe then when you first start mountaineering.

For ski mountaineers, it’s also nice to own a very lightweight, 45-50cm axe, for ski objectives where you don’t expect to use it very much.

Climbing-rated Helmet only please. Rentals are available.

Bike, ski or other helmets are not suitable, except for dual-rated (mountaineering and skiing) helmets for ski trips.

Climbing helmets basically come in two styles: hardshell (constructed like a hard hat), or molded foam hybrid (constructed like a ski helmet). Either is suitable for a Shasta climb.

Hardshells are better for protection against multiple impacts from above – like rockfall, or dropped equipment. As such they tend to be used for purely climbing applications. They are very durable and withstand use and abuse for many years. Industry leading examples include the Black Diamond Half Dome or the Petzl Elios.

Foam hybrids also protect against rockfall/falling objects, but with less protection against multiple impacts, and are much less durable in general. However, with a more wrap/around style, they also protect more against climber/skier falls and resultant head strikes, or impacts from behind. They can absorb more energy, but like a ski helmet, this comes at the expense of deformation/destruction of the foam. Industry leading examples include the Black Diamond Vapor, the Black Diamond Vector, or the Petzl Siroccho.

Trekking/Ski poles are required. Rentals are available. Collapsible (3-section) is highly recommended. Black Diamond Expedition 3 poles have been a guide favorite for many years.

We use poles for the approach hikes to/from basecamp, and also on lower angle portions of the summit climb, often in combination with crampons.

To size/adjust a pole, hold it by its handle at your side, with your elbow forming a 90 degree angle – the tip should reach the ground. Most poles come with a smaller basket, which is suitable for a variety of applications, including more firm/consolidated snow like we have in the summer on Shasta. A larger “powder” basket is usually not necessary for June or later trips on Shasta. Tip protectors are not necessary, and pole straps can usually be removed to save weight and bulk.

Sleeping bag – Synthetic or down, rated to 20f minimum (for spring trips). Bring an easily compressible down or synthetic mummy style sleeping bag rated to 15-25. If you are a cold sleeper, consider a bag with a 15F-5F rating. For very early season trips, many climbers and guides prefer a 0F bag. For later season trips, a 20-25F bag can be sufficient.

Down is more compressible and provides more warmth per weight unit, but is consequently more expensive. A higher fill value i.e. 800 vs. 600 denotes a higher quality fill, which will be more expensive, but will provide a much higher quality product, and, if cared for, a longer lasting investment.

Sleeping Pad – Air or closed cell foam pad. For most South Side climbs through June we will be camping on snow, especially at the high camps. A 4 season pad or one with a higher R-value is nice to have. For camping on snow, many of our guides and climbers prefer to go with a double pad combo vs. just a single 4-season inflatable type pad. A 3/4 length foam pad only weighs about 1/2 a pound, and when combined with a full-length lighter weight, 3-season pad the total R-value is very high. Also, the foam is easy to strap on the outside, provides insulated seating in camp, and some “insurance” against an unexpected leak in the middle of the night.

Hard or soft shell, uninsulated. The shell jacket and pants can either be waterproof aka “hardshell”, or water and wind-resistant, aka “softshell”. In general, hardshells are recommended early season (April-June), with softshells recommended late season (July-September), except during periods of inclement weather. When in doubt, bring both options and your guide will advise you which to bring based on the current forecast.

Fleece/wool light to medium weight sweater top only. It can be on the lighter side. Light fleeces like the Patagonia R1, or a very slightly insulated/lined windshirt like the Marmot DriClime are guide favorites. Pieces with a hood are more versatile.

If you have a few different options for a certain layer and aren’t sure what to bring, then bring them all. We do a thorough gear review and Q&A after check in, taking into account the expected weather and conditions, and the guides can advise which would be the better choice.

Lightweight puffy jackets like the Patagonia Micro Puff or similar are not sufficient for the insulated but may be substituted as the mid layer instead. Many of our guides prefer this “double-puff method. For very early season trips, a more heavyweight baselayer bottom, or lightweight puffy pants can be a nice addition.

Lightweight Hiking Pants/Shorts: (optional) for hike to basecamp. Often not necessary for May through early June trips, but required for late season trips, especially if using a hardshell pant for the climb layer. Sun Hoody/Shirt: (optional) sun hoody or button-up style. The OR Echo is a guide favorite and we have these for sale in our shop.

2 pairs gloves are required: an insulated glove and a thin lightweight glove. Some may also prefer to add a third: a midweight glove, but this is not required

• Light Weight Gloves are a thin, lightweight glove, usually constructed of soft-shell and/or fleece, and possibly some leather. Some water resistance and durability is nice to have. These are sometimes called “liners” but they won’t be worn under the insulated pair. Black Diamond Mont Blancs are a great example.

• Insulated Gloves are waterproof and well-insulated ski or mountaineering style – a thick/warm glove that will keep your hands warm well below freezing. This glove should have ample insulation, be waterproof, and a leather palm is nice for ice axe/rope handling. The Black Diamond legend is an excellent example.

• Medium Weight Glove a.k.a an “alpine work glove” is in between the two, may only be water-resistant, and is often a mix of leather and softshell construction. Good examples include the Black Diamond Dirtbag, Truck M1, or the very popular Kincos which are available at many hardware stores.

• Mittens: We do not recommend mittens except for very high altitude/cold expeditions (Denali, Everest, Shasta in winter etc.) as it's a little more difficult to grip the ice axe properly. Mittens should be the 4th, or “last resort” glove in a kit, and not a primary option.

• Baselayers – No Cotton. Cotton drains body heat when wet and is unsuitable for climbing; this includes briefs/bras, etc. Wicking layers like Capilene or Wool are best suited for high output activities in the mountains. Wool especially has become a great base and mid layer. Test your layers before a trip. One set of base layers is sufficient for multi day climbs. Examples include Capilene, Merino or other synthetic

• Socks – Generally 2-3 pairs is sufficient. A thin, hiking or mountaineering specific sock is best; wool or synthetic. The boot provides warmth; the sock fine tunes the fit.

• Underwear – Briefs & Bras must be synthetic or wool material. As lightweight as possible. 2-3 sets max is sufficient for most trips.

Glacier glasses are preferred. Julbo makes a wide variety of options. Sunglasses with dark lenses and full coverage (sport style) are subject to approval. Goggles are generally not needed for mountaineering trips, and are only recommended for early season or winter ski trips.

Sunscreen and lip protection – 25 SPF minimum

Brimmed Sun Hat – Baseball cap style, visor, or other

Fleece or Wool Hat – warm & covers ears. Thin and lightweight is better to be comfortably worn under a helmet.

Buff -Facemask/neck gaiter – lightweight & breathable style. Available in our shop.

Gaiters are usually required and may be omitted for late season trips. Rentals are available. Mid-calf or to just below the knee. Good examples include the ubiquitous OR Crocodile, and the Black Diamond Frontpoint, Apex, or Cirque.

Any basic LED headlamp by a reputable manufacturer will work. There is no lumen requirement.

Popular examples include the Petzl Tikka (available in our shop), Petzl Bindi (rechargeable), Black Diamond Spot or Revolt. Please arrive with fresh batteries or a fully charged battery, if rechargeable.

Nalgene-style or lightweight stainless quart bottles, 2 to 3L total capacity. A 1L or less vacuum insulated bottle like a Kleen Kanteen or Hydroflask can be a good choice for one of the bottles.

Water bladders are NOT allowed on summit day – may be used for approach hike to basecamp only and around camp. If bringing a bladder as supplement, make sure to also carry enough hard bottle to meet the required capacity (2-3L)

Problems with water bladders include inability to monitor consumption, filling difficulties, freezing issues, leakage and breaking (we carry a lot of sharp things!)

• Camp shoes are optional, and can be unnecessary weight for fair-weather, shorter (2-3 day) trips. Bring down booties for spring/early summer or light camp shoes for most summer trips.

• Down booties can be nice in spring/early summer, when still on snow at one or more camps. Examples include The North Face Booties, Western Mountaineering Booties, Feathered Friends Booties, or the Baffin Island Bootie.

• Lighter camp shoes are sufficient for when camp is expected to be dry (late season South Side trips, most North Side trips). Very lightweight running or approach shoes, sandals, Crocs, or flip-flops can work. If in doubt on what to expect as far as camp conditions, please contact us a week or two before your trip and we’ll advise.

Personal Kit/Toiletries – Small quantity of toilet paper, towelettes, toothbrush, blister kit, personal medications, earplugs, pocket knife, etc.

NOTE: Please bring only the minimum amount of toiletries, medications etc, and package/consolidate them into the smallest/lightest containers available. This is an easy weight to reduce a significant amount of pack weight.

• Garbage Bag: for packing out provided solid waste kits aka “wag bags”…

**Bathroom Notes: At high camp in Avalanche Gulch and at all other base camps, we pack out all human solid waste using Forest Service provided pack-out kits. Liquid waste goes on the ground. We usually designate a private area away from camp for both. Your guides will explain use and disposal.

Eating Utensils – Cup, bowl, & spoon only. Please select very lightweight/compatible versions to easily save weight/space.

Snacks only for climb/descent days. Light lunches for other days (see below). Bring a variety of small portions of carbs, fats, proteins and sweets.

• Snack examples include: Clif Bars, Shots, or Blocks; energy/candy bars; hard or gummy candy; dried fruit, nuts; jerky, cheese, salty trail mix, etc. Many like to supplement breakfast with additional protein like nuts, jerky, cheese, etc. depending on needs and preferences.

DAILY FOOD SUGGESTIONS

• Day 1 on all climbs/courses – a perishable sandwich-style lunch is OK. There is often time to pick up a sandwich locally after gear check. Also bring a small selection of snacks.

• Day 2 on climbs/seminars that involve a move to a higher camp – Avalanche Gulch Expedition-Style (3-day), or a dedicated skills day – Glacier I Seminars, or custom/advanced courses.
  
  A non-perishable lunch, i.e. bagels/tortillas/crackers with cheese/salami or peanut butter etc. is nice to have, along with selection of other snacks. Alternately just bring a wide variety of snacks.

• Climb Day – day three for Avalanche Gulch (4-day), and Glacier I seminar; day two for Avalanche Gulch Alpine-Style (2-day), West Face, North Side, Clear Creek, and Casaval Ridge.
  
  Bring a large selection of small, convenient snacks – one or two individual 100-200 calorie snack for each break. Plan for a long day with many snacks! We typically stop for a snack/water break every 1-1.5 hrs, and may be on the move for 12-16 hours or more. A wide variety is key.

• Descent Day – day three for West Face, North Side, Clear Creek, and Casaval Ridge; or day four 4-day Avalanche Gulch Glacier I seminar.
  
  2-3 small snacks is usually sufficient. After breakfast we break camp, hike out, and are usually back to town in time for lunch.