3 day North Side Climb
Mt Shasta, California - 14,179 ft
Hotlum Bolam Route
Climb Overview
Climb Mt. Shasta on what Outside Magazine calls a “Life Changing Adventure Trip”. Shasta’s northeast side is a vast and scenic glaciated wilderness. The climbing routes follow long, steep snow pitches between the Hotlum, Bolam, and Wintun glaciers. Basecamp is pitched by snowmelt springs at 9,500’ on large glacial moraines.
This route is for climbers looking for a moderate glacier climb and is best June-August. Proper conditioning and preparation are crucial to summit success – this is an aggressive itinerary for this route and previous experience is required.
The three day north side climb is an alpine itinerary for climbers with previous experience. There will be time for a brief review of skills but the focus is on climbing the route alpine style. For more in depth instruction and skills, the Glacier I course is recommended.
On this climb, we aim to create personal connections with Mt. Shasta and the surrounding land and lasting connections to your new climbing community.
We bring over 40 years of experience guiding on Mount Shasta and are the original guiding company for this special mountain. We know Shasta better than anyone and aim to provide a professional and positive experience for all climbers.
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Previous mountaineering experience including ice axe/crampon climbing is required.
Previous time spent at elevations similar to Shasta is required.
A great route for returning climbers and those looking for an introductory glacier climb. Proper conditioning and preparation are crucial to summit success – this is an aggressive itinerary for this route!
Climbing Mt Shasta is strenuous. For the best chances of summiting please train ahead of time. Feel free to contact us for any training recommendations. Check out our training page to get started.
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All dates are subject to route change in the event of adverse conditions.
July 12-14
July 26-28
August 9-11
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$1595 per person
INCLUDES
Professional instruction and mountain guiding with a guide-to-client summit-day ratio of 1:3
Breakfast & dinner while in the backcountry.
All Group camping equipment such as tents and cooking equipment.
Mt. Shasta summit passes
** Boots are not included but rentals are available in the town of Mt. Shasta.
The difference is in our guides
The Shasta Mountain Guides® staff is a diverse, skilled, and fun group of individuals. Their common bond is a pure passion for being in the mountains and sharing that desire with friends, both old and new. We strongly believe in providing the highest level of service and quality of experience while climbing Mt. Shasta.
We are local professionals and are committed to your safety and enjoyment. SMG is the original guide service on Mt. Shasta and we are on the mountain daily. We specialize in Mount Shasta and the Shasta-Trinity National Forest. When you climb with us, your trip is supported by our collective experience and knowledge of the mountain.
Our combined experience includes thousands of Shasta summits and many years spent on the mountain. Together we’ve explored all its’ routes during all conditions and seasons. Join us for a trip of your lifetime!
North Side Climb ITINERARY
Day 1
8:00 am | Meet guides and group at the SMG Shop: 305 Chestnut Street. Please be punctual to allow time for gear rentals, packing, and a group briefing. Your guides will do a thorough gear check and pass out group items before packing your backpacks. Rental equipment is available from the Fifth Season 530-926-3606
10:00am-11:30am | Drive to the North Gate trailhead (7,000’) for a group briefing and start the approach to base camp (9,500’) The road to the trailhead is rough, high clearance and/or four wheel drive is recommended. We do not provide transportation.
11:30am-3:30pm | Depending on weather and trail conditions the approach to basecamp will take from 4-6 hours. Distance: 3.5 miles with 2,500’ vertical gain. The terrain starts on a good trail in alpine forests and travels to the base of the glacier with loose rock, scree, and snow possible.
3:30pm-6:00pm | Once at basecamp the group will set up camp and prepare for snow school. The purpose of snow school is to prepare you and the climbing team for a safe, efficient, and enjoyable climb. Topics covered include crampon technique and ice axe use, team rope travel and team arrest.
6:00pm-7:30pm | After snow school you will return to camp for an early dinner and evening briefing. Your guides will discuss climb day logistics and what to pack. Generally, climbers will be resting in tents by 7:30-8:00pm.
Day 2
Alpine Start | Wake-up call will occur between 2:00am-3:00am. The ascent usually takes 6-9 hours. We will climb the lower snowfields under starlight and rope up once we reach the lower glacier at about 10,500’. Distance: 3.5 miles, 4,500’ vertical gain. The terrain will start on low angle snow fields and progress to 45 degree steep snow and ice on the glacier. We will be roped for the ascent and descent for safety and group pacing.
Turn around time | For safety purposes, our turn around time on the mountain may be as early as 11:00 am-12:00 pm. We use these time frames to avoid hazards such as rock fall and afternoon storms. Depending on route conditions, the descent back to camp may take 3-4 hours.
Back at base camp | The team will have the rest of the afternoon to rest, hydrate, and relax. Hot drinks will be provided and an early dinner will be prepared by the guides.
Day 3
8:00am-2:00pm | We will sleep in and enjoy a leisurely breakfast, pack camp and descend back to the trailhead. The descent takes 3-4 hours. We usually return to town between 12:00 and 2:00pm
* On occasion if weather prevents us from making a summit attempt on day two, we may opt to change the summit climb to day three. If this occurs, we will be back to town between 5:00-7:00pm on day three.
For lodging in the town of Mount Shasta before and after your trip we recommend our partners at Summit Lofts and LOGE Mt. Shasta. They offer a discount to our climbers and guests.