4 day Glacier I Seminar Intro to Mountaineering

Mt Shasta, California - 14,179 ft

North Side
Alternate Routes | West Face

Climb Overview

This is a summit climb with an extra day for skills training, glacier school, and acclimation. The 4-day course and summit climb is for the mountaineer who wants to build a solid foundation of mountain skills and the opportunity to climb a snow route on Mt. Shasta. This is an ideal schedule with more time to learn skills, build a strong climbing team, and enjoy the mountain while increasing the odds of summit success.

We’ll thoroughly instruct in snow movement, crampon use, ice axe techniques, rope travel, snow anchors, and more. With an optimal schedule for success and skill building, this seminar is ideal for a summit climb and skills building.

Due to the popularity of this course, and high summit success rates on our 4-day vs. our shorter trips, we will be offering these as long as conditions allow. Depending on trailhead access, early season trips will be on the southwest aspect of Mt. Shasta and climb the West Face or Avalanche Gulch routes. Once the road to the North Side trailhead is snow-free and accessible, we will move the venue to the north side Hotlum-Bolam route. Often this occurs in Mid-May, or sometimes not until Mid-June.

Mountaineering instruction includes:

  • Ice axe and crampon use

  • Ice axe self-arrest

  • Snow climbing technique

  • Basic rope travel

  • Snow movement

  • Snow anchors & more

On this climb, we aim to create personal connections with Mt. Shasta and the surrounding land as well as lasting connections to your new climbing community.

We bring over 40 years of experience guiding on Mount Shasta and are the original guiding company for this special mountain. We know Shasta better than anyone and aim to provide a professional and positive experience for all climbers.

    • No mountaineering experience is required.

    • Previous hiking experience is required.

    • Previous backpacking experience is required.

    • Prospective climbers should be in excellent physical condition and train diligently for a big challenge.

    Climbing Mt Shasta is strenuous. For the best chances of summiting please train ahead of time. Feel free to contact us for any training recommendations. Check out our training page to get started.

  • All dates are subject to route change in the event of adverse conditions.

    2024 SEMINAR DATES:

    May 17-20*

    May 24-27*

    May 31-June 3*

    June 7-10*

    June 14-17

    June 21-24

    July 5-8

    July 19-22

    August 2-5

    *Seminars marked with an * may take place on the West Face route, depending on snow/route conditions.

  • $1695 per person

    INCLUDES

    • Professional instruction and mountain guiding with a guide-to-client summit-day ratio of 1:3

    • Breakfast & dinner while in the backcountry.

    • All Group camping equipment such as tents and cooking equipment.

    • Mt. Shasta summit passes

    ** Boots are not included but rentals are available in the town of Mt. Shasta.

The difference is in our guides

The Shasta Mountain Guides® staff is a diverse, skilled, and fun group of individuals. Their common bond is a pure passion for being in the mountains and sharing that desire with friends, both old and new. We strongly believe in providing the highest level of service and quality of experience while climbing Mt. Shasta.

We are local professionals and are committed to your safety and enjoyment. SMG is the original guide service on Mt. Shasta and we are on the mountain daily. We specialize in Mount Shasta and the Shasta-Trinity National Forest. When you climb with us, your trip is supported by our collective experience and knowledge of the mountain.

Our combined experience includes thousands of Shasta summits and many years spent on the mountain. Together we’ve explored all its’ routes during all conditions and seasons. Join us for a trip of your lifetime!

Glacier 1Intro ITINERARY

Day 1
9:00 am | Meet guides and group at the SMG Shop located at 305 Chestnut St, Mt. Shasta CA. Please be punctual to allow time for gear rentals, packing, and a group briefing. Please note: your guides will do a thorough gear check and pass out group gear before packing your backpack. We recommend that you reserve your rental equipment through the Fifth Season in advance: 530-926-3606

10:00am-11:30am | Drive to the North Gate trailhead (7000’) and start the approach to base camp (9,500’). Be aware the final 10 miles to the Northgate trailhead is dirt and rough in places. AWD or high clearance is recommended. If we are using the Bunny Flat trailhead the road is paved and take about 20 minutes to drive.

11:30am-3:30pm | Hike to base camp. The trail ascends through the forest and steepens just below camp and may be snow covered in places. Depending on weather and conditions the approach to base camp may take 4-6 hours with heavy packs. Vertical gain: 2,500’, Distance: 3.4 miles

3:30pm-8:00pm | At base camp the group will set up camp, discuss some basic skills, and enjoy delicious, organic dinner prepared by your guides. We’ll prepare for the following day of mountain instruction.

Day 2
6:30am-7:30am | Day two you will rise early and prepare for a full day of skills instruction on the glacier.

7:30am-8:30am | Breakfast and hot drinks

9:00am-3:00pm | Snow and glacier skills training. Guides will choose an area on the glacier between 10,000’-11,000’ and are prepared to format instruction according to group and individual goals. Emphasis will be placed on movement skills, ice axe and crampon use, team rope travel and team arrest, basic glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques may be introduced as well.

3:00pm-7:30pm | The team will return to camp for an early dinner and evening briefing. Guides will discuss climb day logistics and summit day plan. Climbers will be resting in tents by 7:30-8:00pm.

Day 3
Alpine Start | Depending on group size, season, and route conditions, wake-up call will occur between 2:00am-3:00am

Summit Climb | The ascent is 7-9 hours up and 4-5 hours down. For safety purposes, our turn around time on the mountain will be 12:00 pm. We use these time frames to avoid hazards and allow time for a safe descent.

Back at base camp | Back at base camp the team will have the remaining afternoon to rest and relax and enjoy dinner.

* Itinerary subject to change & the summit of Mount Shasta is subject to safe weather and snow conditions.

Day 4
7:00am-1:00pm | Day four you will enjoy a leisurely breakfast and pack up camp. Additional skills instruction before the descent is recommended but not mandatory. This is a time to review the course material and answer any remaining questions. The descent back to the trailhead takes about 3 hours.

*projected itinerary starting at the North Gate trailhead may vary due to weather and trail conditions.

For lodging in the town of Mount Shasta before and after your trip we recommend our partners at Summit Lofts and LOGE Mt. Shasta. They offer a discount to our climbers and guests.