3 day Mount Shasta Expedition Style
Mt Shasta, California - 14,179 ft
Avalanche Glutch Route
Alternate Routes | West Face or Clear Creek
Climb Overview
The three-day ascent of Mt. Shasta is the recommended climb for summit success. There is ample time for skills instruction and a climb schedule to best suit the conditions. This is the classic summit expedition on Mt. Shasta. The plan is to climb the Avalanche Gulch route. We may choose to use alternate routes as conditions require; this could be the West Face or Clear Creek.
The success rate of a three-day Mt Shasta climb is much higher than on the quicker two-day trips. Mountaineering instruction includes:
Ice axe and crampon use
Ice axe self-arrest
Snow climbing technique
Basic rope travel
On this climb, we aim to create personal connections with Mt. Shasta and the surrounding land, lasting connections to your new climbing community.
We bring over 40 years of experience guiding on Mount Shasta and are the original guiding company for this special mountain. We know Shasta better than anyone and aim to provide a professional and positive experience for all climbers.
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No mountaineering experience is required.
Previous hiking experience is required.
Previous backpacking experience is helpful.
Prospective climbers should be in excellent physical condition and train diligently for a big challenge.
Climbing Mt Shasta is strenuous. For the best chances of summiting please train ahead of time. Feel free to contact us for any training recommendations. Check out our training page to get started.
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All dates are subject to route change in the event of adverse conditions.
2024 CLIMB DATES:
May 3-5
May 7-9
May 10-12
May 17-19
May 21-23
May 25-27
May 28-30
May 31-June 2
June 4-6
June 7-9
June 11-13
June 14-16*
June 18-20*
June 21-23*
June 25-27*
July 5-7*
*Depending on snow/route conditions, climbs marked with an * may climb via the Clear Creek route.
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$1495 per person
INCLUDES
Professional instruction and mountain guiding with a guide-to-client summit-day ratio of 1:3
Breakfast & dinner while in the backcountry.
All Group camping equipment such as tents and cooking equipment.
Mt. Shasta summit passes
** Boots are not included but rentals are available in the town.
The difference is in our guides
The Shasta Mountain Guides® staff is a diverse, skilled, and fun group of individuals. Their common bond is a pure passion for being in the mountains and sharing it with friends, both old and new. We strongly believe in providing the highest level of service and quality of experience while climbing Mt. Shasta. We are local professionals and are committed to your safety and enjoyment.
SMG is the original guide service on Mt. Shasta, and we are on the mountain daily. We specialize in Mount Shasta and the Shasta-Trinity National Forest. When you climb with us, your trip is supported by our collective experience and knowledge of the mountain. Our combined experience includes thousands of Shasta summits and many years spent on the mountain. Together we’ve explored all its’ routes during all conditions and seasons. Join us for the trip of your lifetime!
MT SHASTA 3-DAY SUMMIT ITINERARY
Day 1
9:00 am | Meet guides and group at the SMG Shop located at 305 Chestnut Street, Mt Shasta, CA. Please be punctual to allow time for gear rentals, packing, and a group briefing. Please note: your guides will do a thorough gear check and pass out group gear before packing your backpack. We recommend that you reserve your rental equipment through the Fifth Season in advance: 530-926-3606
10:00am-12:30am | Drive to the Bunny Flat trailhead (6,950’) for a group briefing and start the approach to base camp at Horse Camp (8000’) Depending on weather and trail conditions, the moderate/ low angle approach to base camp may take anywhere from 1.5 to 2.0 hours. Distance: 2 miles, Vertical gain: 1,000’
12:30pm-2:00pm | At base camp your group will set up camp, snack on trail food and prepare for snow school.
2:00pm-4:00pm | Snow School. The purpose of snow school is to prepare you and the climbing team for a safe, efficient, and enjoyable climb. Topics covered include fundamental climbing techniques, ice axe and crampon use, team rope travel, and team arrest.
4:00pm-6:00pm | After snow school you will return to camp for an early dinner and evening briefing.
Day 2
7:00am | Wake-up, hot breakfast, and pack up camp.
9:00am-1:00pm | We will hike to approximately 9500-10,000ft and set up our high camp between 50/50 Flat and Lake Helen. Distance: approx 2 miles, Vertical Gain: 2,000’
2:00-5:00pm | We will continue with an additional skills session and advanced training and review.
5:00-7:00pm | Dinner and pre-climb briefing
Day 3
Alpine Start | Depending on our team abilities, weather, and route conditions we will begin our climb between 2:00- 3:00am. Distance: ~2 miles (one way) Vertical Gain 4,000’ Descent: 7,000’ 7 miles
Turn around time | For safety purposes, our turn around time on the mountain may be as early as 11:00 am-12:00 pm. We use these time frames to avoid hazards such as rock fall and afternoon storms. Depending on route conditions, the descent back to camp may take 2.5-4.5 hours.
Back at base camp | Back at base camp the team will pack up and descend to the trail head. We expect to be back to the Bunny Flat Trailhead between 5:00 and 7:00pm.
* Itinerary subject to change & the summit of Mount Shasta is subject to safe weather and snow conditions.
For lodging in the town of Mount Shasta before and after your trip we recommend our partners at Summit Lofts and LOGE Mt. Shasta. They offer a discount to our climbers and guests.