This is by far the most common question we receive. And rightfully so, we all have the desire to succeed in our efforts and good conditions will certainly increase our chances for summit success on a giant Cascade volcano. That said, we’ll answer best we can with the understood caveat that “it greatly depends”.
Casaval Ridge in early season
Historically and statistically speaking, there is no question that June and July can have some of the most stable weather on Northern California’s Mt. Shasta. Part of the Cascade mountain range, Mt. Shasta is a strato-volcano and on average receives over 500″ of snow per season. This is not only great news for backcountry skiers and snowboarders, but for alpinists as well. The snow provides a great medium for a downhill schuss, but for efficient uphill climbing it’s essential. As a Cascade peak, underneath all the snow lies an unstable rock surface. Optimally we climb when the snow still covers these loose rocks and the weather mostly stable. With proper timing we will climb when the snow is frozen in the wee hours of the night and early morning. Then typically, by 11:00 or 12:00 the surface has softened and makes for a quick and exciting descent with one of the longest glissades on the planet!
Mt. Shasta summit pinnacle
The primary factor is we want to climb Mt. Shasta when there is adequate snow coverage and a reasonable chance for high pressure and good weather. The current winter snowpack depths and weather patterns will ultimately determine when that is.
Unlike peaks to the south in the Sierra Nevada Range, we need the snow depth for safe and efficient travel. The old notion to wait for the snow to melt is a potentially dangerous solution and certainly a tedious challenge of uphill scrambling on loose, steep, rocks. We at SMG choose climbing routes in optimal condition and utilize several trailheads and aspects as conditions change throughout the year. We are on the mountain daily scrutinizing route conditions as they quickly change.
We recommend and regularly schedule summit climbs from April-September. A climb outside of this timeframe is certainly possible as a private and custom trip. In 30 years of guiding on Mt. Shasta,we’ve found best summit success in the spring and summer months.
April Ski Mountaineering Mt. Shasta
April and May are generally considered early season. We feel this is the best timing for true alpine climbing and ski mountaineering with all of the routes having excellent conditions. There may still be concerns of avalanche hazard in Avalanche Gulch, especially if we receive new snowfall, but the ridges are prime now. We will be on snow the entire trip, from the trailhead to the top. Weather tends to be a bit colder and the wind a bit stronger as compared to later in the season. The advantage is the scenery is absolutely stunning and there are far fewer climbers on the mountain. Casaval Ridge is the preferred route for climbing and this is the season for a summit climb and ski or snowboard descent! Our experience is that there is a 75% chance of climbable weather in May, and maybe 60% in April.
June summit!
June and July are peak season on the mountain. This is the best good weather and adequate snowpack combo. Avalanche Gulch and the West Face are both in prime climbing condition at this time. In a big winter like we’ve had, we may receive enough snow to allow climbing on the south side routes through August. This is also the most impacted season, as many want to optimize the short window. It’s usually hard to go wrong and our first recommendation for timing, but we have skied fresh powder in June and had snowstorms in July that dropped over 4 feet!
Hotlum Glacier August
August and September are our version of summer on Mt. Shasta. The snow level and temps may be creeping up on the south side routes, however the North side Glacier Climbs are perfect at this time. August can be hot, but over on the north side, it’s cooler and the glaciers in prime shape. We may see afternoon thunderstorms, but they are usually late on Shasta and infrequent. Avalanche Gulch is typically done at this point, but the Hotlum and Bolam Glaciers perfect! As we get deeper into September, the days are short, temps a bit cooler, and the chance for snow not uncommon. The route conditions will deteriorate and we’re usually finishing up by mid September.
SHASTAAAAH!
An off-season climb is always possible and some of our most memorable experiences may not always involve reaching the summit. If one is resolved to experience whatever the mountain chooses to dish out a winter expedition is a wonderful experience. Historically, it is also the least likely time to go to the top. Wax the skis, at least the powder will be fresh!
We’ve had summer conditions in a January summit and fierce winter storms with powder skiing in July. One thing is for certain, there are few sites that equal the rugged beauty of Mt. Shasta in a storm; the clouds reveal a fresh landscape that leaves me breathless every time!
April won’t come soon enough!!!
Would you recommend using a guide company if we want to summit Shasta? This would be our first time aiming for the top. If you don’t use a guide, are there designated trails for going to the top?
We recommend using a guide if you do not have any prior mountaineering experience (and even if you do!). You will learn the fundamental skills of the sport as well helping you enjoy the challenging adventure without the stress of logistics.
It’s important to know that there are no trails to the summit of Mt. Shasta. This is a Class III Alpine Climb that requires the use of ice axes, crampons, and mountain navigation over snow, ice, rock, and scree.
Climbing with SMG will increase your safety and fun, please call or email for additional details.