Glacier II: Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue

Mt Shasta, California - 14,179 ft

Hotlum Glacier Route

Course Overview

This seminar is an in-depth and comprehensive course covering glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques. We will be on the Hotlum Glacier, where a series of crevasses and icefalls will provide perfect training and climbing opportunities. The emphasis will be on skill development and hands-on practice for glacier travel and rescue. A summit bid via the dramatic Hotlum Glacier completes this five-day seminar. 

Mountaineering instruction includes:

  • Ice axe and crampon use, team and self-arrest, snow climbing technique, basic rope travel

Advanced instruction includes:

  • Constructing snow and ice anchors

  • Rope rigging for glacier travel

  • Personal and team crevasse rescue

  • Hauling systems for more complex rescues

In this course we aim to create personal connections with Mt. Shasta and the surrounding land, and to building lasting connections to your new climbing community.

We have logged over 40 years of experience guiding on Mount Shasta and are the original guiding company for this special mountain. We know Shasta better than anyone and aim to provide a professional and positive experience for all climbers.

    • Mountaineering experience including crampon/ice axe use is required.

    • Some exposure to basic rope skills like knot tying and belaying is highly recommended.

    • Previous time spent at elevations similar to Shasta is required.

    • must be in good physical condition.

    Climbing Mt Shasta is strenuous. For the best chances of summiting please train ahead of time. Feel free to contact us for any training recommendations. Check out our training page to get started.

  • All dates are subject to route change in the event of adverse conditions.

    • July 18-22

  • $1795 per person

    INCLUDES

    • Professional instruction and mountain guiding with a guide-to-client summit-day ratio of 1:3

    • Breakfast & dinner while in the backcountry.

    • All Group camping equipment such as tents and cooking equipment.

    • Mt. Shasta summit passes

    ** Boots are not included but rentals are available in the town of Mt. Shasta.

The difference is in our guides

The Shasta Mountain Guides® staff is a diverse, skilled, and fun group of individuals. Their common bond is a pure passion for being in the mountains and sharing that desire with friends, both old and new. We strongly believe in providing the highest level of service and quality of experience while climbing Mt. Shasta.

We are local professionals and are committed to your safety and enjoyment. SMG is the original guide service on Mt. Shasta and we are on the mountain daily. We specialize in Mount Shasta and the Shasta-Trinity National Forest. When you climb with us, your trip is supported by our collective experience and knowledge of the mountain.

Our combined experience includes thousands of Shasta summits and many years spent on the mountain. Together we’ve explored all its’ routes during all conditions and seasons. Join us for a trip of your lifetime!

5-DAY Course ITINERARY

Day 1
9:00 am | Meet group at the SMG Shop 305 Chestnut Street, Mt. Shasta, CA. Please be punctual to allow enough time for gear rentals, packing, and a group briefing with your guides. We will conduct a thorough gear check and pass out group gear before packing your backpacks. Rental equipment is available from The Fifth Season, conveniently located next to us. please reserve in advance 530-926-3606. www.thefifthseason.com

10:00-11:30am | Drive to the Brewer Creek trail head (7200’) for a group briefing and start the approach to base camp (10,200’). The drive is approximately 1 hour on dirt roads; we do not provide transportation but encourage carpooling.

11:30-4:30pm | Hike to base camp. Depending on weather and trail conditions, this approach to base camp may take anywhere from 4 to 6 hours, it is mostly cross-country hiking on dry rugged terrain and some snow field crossing. Distance hiking: 3 miles, 3,000’ elevation gain.

4:30pm-8:00pm | At base camp the group will set up camp, enjoy dinner prepared by your guides, and pack for the following day of skills instruction. There will be plenty of time for questions and answers, and possibly some appropriate skill instruction.

Day 2
6:30am-7:30am | Day two we will rise early and prepare for a full day of skills instruction on the glacier.

7:30am-3:00pm | Your guides will chose an appropriate area on the glacier for this day of skills instruction. Guides are prepared to format instruction according to group and individual educational goals. Emphasis will be placed on glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques; rope rigging, snow anchors, snow movement, as well as a review of fundamental climbing techniques, team rope travel and team arrest.

3:00pm-7:30pm| The team will return to camp for an early dinner and evening briefing. Your guides will discuss seminar logistics and what to pack for the following day. There is typically time for Q & A and review of the days material.

Day 3
7:00am-3:00pm | We will pick up where day 2 left off. The day will be spent on the glacier refining our skills and practicing crevasse rescue techniques. We will add specific skills including steep climbing, self rescue, team rescue, and possibly ice climbing.

3:00pm- 6:00pm | We will return to camp to rest and prepare for the next day's summit attempt. The guides will have an evening briefing to discuss climb day logistics and what to pack for the summit climb. We will have a pre-climb dinner and early bed time to ready ourselves for the early morning start.

Day 4
Alpine Start | Depending on group size, season, and route conditions, wake-up call will occur between 2:00am-3:00am. Total distance: 4 miles, 4,000’ elevation gain.

Turn around time | For safety purposes, our turn around time on the mountain may be as early as 11:00 am-12:00 pm. We use these time frames to avoid hazards such as serac and snow bridge collapse, rock fall and afternoon storms. Depending on route conditions, the descent back to camp may take 2.5-4.0 hours.

Back at base camp | the team will have the rest of the afternoon to relax, debrief the day and enjoy another alpine dinner and sunset from our camp

Day 5
7:00am - 8:30am | we will enjoy a leisurely breakfast and pack up camp. There will be a skills session before descending back to the trailhead. This will be a time to answer any remaining questions and possibly cover some new material. The descent takes about 2-3 hours.

* Itinerary subject to change & the summit of Mount Shasta is subject to safe weather and snow conditions

For lodging in the town of Mount Shasta before and after your trip we recommend our partners at Summit Lofts and LOGE Mt. Shasta. They offer a discount to our climbers and guests.