Trail to Horse Camp

As we roll into the new year, we’re still looking for some good storms to get us into the backcountry ski season. Finally the weather forecasts are starting to show an end to high pressure and the welcoming of wet and winter weather starting next week. NOAA has issued a special weather statement indicating a return to more seasonal conditions. A collective sigh of relief was heard from the BC community in Mt. Shasta! We were still receiving snow in town last June; so really winter just barely ended and we’re certainly expecting to get back to a deep base soon. The Shasta snow machine can turn on and get us right back to normal for skiing as well as the summer climbing season. There is still plenty of time to enjoy the skiing and boarding in 2012!

The mild and stable weather has made for fairly decent climbing conditions and Senior Guide Keith Potts made a successful winter ascent and lead a climber from New Zealand last week. We’ve had enough new snow to smooth the upper mountain and it looks more like July than January, although temps have been cold and at times windy.

In the meantime there’s been sunshine for hiking, the ice skating on the backcountry lakes has been all time, and there’s even some steeper ice for the alpinists and their ice tools. We’ll be closely watching the weather models and will be out on skis as soon as we’re able! Give us a call or email with any questions at all, we are always happy to help you plan your Mt. Shasta adventure!

Mt. Shasta winter conditions

With the La Nina forecast and early indications looking like another big winter, we are extremely excited about the upcoming climbing and ski season on Mt. Shasta. Early October delivered new snow and November has started with a winter storm advisory! Yippee! We are expecting nothing less than stellar conditions this year. If you’ve had a Shasta climb on your bucket list, it’s time to check it off! Call or email for more details or just to chat; we love what we do and are happy to help in any way!

Check out the website for dates, fees, and scheduled programs on California’s most breathtaking peak. We hope that you can join us!

Casaval Ridge in early season

Historically and statistically speaking, there is no question that June and July can have some of the most stable weather on Northern California’s Mt. Shasta. Part of the Cascade mountain range, Mt. Shasta is a strato-volcano and on average receives over 500″ of snow per season. This is not only great news for backcountry skiers and snowboarders, but for alpinists as well. The snow provides a great medium for a downhill schuss, but for efficient uphill climbing it’s essential. As a Cascade peak, underneath all the snow lies an unstable rock surface. Optimally we climb when the snow still covers these loose rocks and the weather mostly stable. With proper timing we will climb when the snow is frozen in the wee hours of the night and early morning. Then typically, by 11:00 or 12:00 the surface has softened and makes for a quick and exciting descent with one of the longest glissades on the planet!

Mt. Shasta summit pinnacle

The primary factor is we want to climb Mt. Shasta when there is adequate snow coverage and a reasonable chance for high pressure and good weather. The current winter snowpack depths and weather patterns will ultimately determine when that is.

Unlike peaks to the south in the Sierra Nevada Range, we need the snow depth for safe and efficient travel. The old notion to wait for the snow to melt is a potentially dangerous solution and certainly a tedious challenge of uphill scrambling on loose, steep, rocks. We at SMG choose climbing routes in optimal condition and utilize several trailheads and aspects as conditions change throughout the year. We are on the mountain daily scrutinizing route conditions as they quickly change.

We recommend and regularly schedule summit climbs from April-September. A climb outside of this timeframe is certainly possible as a private and custom trip. In 30 years of guiding on Mt. Shasta,we’ve found best summit success in the spring and summer months.

April Ski Mountaineering Mt. Shasta

April and May are generally considered early season. We feel this is the best timing for true alpine climbing and ski mountaineering with all of the routes having excellent conditions. There may still be concerns of avalanche hazard in Avalanche Gulch, especially if we receive new snowfall, but the ridges are prime now. We will be on snow the entire trip, from the trailhead to the top. Weather tends to be a bit colder and the wind a bit stronger as compared to later in the season. The advantage is the scenery is absolutely stunning and there are far fewer climbers on the mountain. Casaval Ridge is the preferred route for climbing and this is the season for a summit climb and ski or snowboard descent! Our experience is that there is a 75% chance of climbable weather in May, and maybe 60% in April.

June summit!

June and July are peak season on the mountain. This is the best good weather and adequate snowpack combo. Avalanche Gulch and the West Face are both in prime climbing condition at this time. In a big winter like we’ve had, we may receive enough snow to allow climbing on the south side routes through August. This is also the most impacted season, as many want to optimize the short window. It’s usually hard to go wrong and our first recommendation for timing, but we have skied fresh powder in June and had snowstorms in July that dropped over 4 feet!

Hotlum Glacier August

August and September are our version of summer on Mt. Shasta. The snow level and temps may be creeping up on the south side routes, however the North side Glacier Climbs are perfect at this time. August can be hot, but over on the north side, it’s cooler and the glaciers in prime shape. We may see afternoon thunderstorms, but they are usually late on Shasta and infrequent. Avalanche Gulch is typically done at this point, but the Hotlum and Bolam Glaciers perfect! As we get deeper into September, the days are short, temps a bit cooler, and the chance for snow not uncommon. The route conditions will deteriorate and we’re usually finishing up by mid September.

SHASTAAAAH!

An off-season climb is always possible and some of our most memorable experiences may not always involve reaching the summit. If one is resolved to experience whatever the mountain chooses to dish out a winter expedition is a wonderful experience. Historically, it is also the least likely time to go to the top. Wax the skis, at least the powder will be fresh!

We’ve had summer conditions in a January summit and fierce winter storms with powder skiing in July. One thing is for certain, there are few sites that equal the rugged beauty of Mt. Shasta in a storm; the clouds reveal a fresh landscape that leaves me breathless every time!

Climbs on the North side Hotlum-Bolam route are in prime condition.  We have trips scheduled through September 5th (Labor Day weekend).

The Hotlum-Bolam Ridge route from basecamp at 9,400'

The Hotlum-Bolam Ridge is in great shape, awesome summits the last several weeks!

Summit team on the Hotlum-Bolam route

We have just a few departures remaining for the 2011 season. Our 3 day NE side climb on 8/19-21 and September 3-5. We have a 4 day Glacier I Seminar September 2-5 and 5 day Glacier III August 24-28.

Of course, we can create a custom trip and itinerary for you as well.  Take advantage of the ideal conditions on the glaciers this year!

Shasta Summit!

Choosing an appropriate climb to suit your goals and skills will help ensure a more enjoyable experience. Here we will discuss the popular routes, the skills and preparation necessary, the ideal months for each climb, as well as a few photos to hopefully get you fired up!.

Mt. Shasta essentials

Climbing Mt. Shasta is a physical, mental, and technical challenge.  It is a reasonable objective for those who are in good physical condition, training specifically for the climb, and are motivated for a big event!

As a Cascade Volcano (2nd highest, and largest by volume) Mt. Shasta is best climbed with snow and ice to minimize hazard and provide most suitable conditions.  Although we will climb with crampons, ice axe, and even rope up on summit day; the technical challenges are minimal on most routes.  The biggest challenge is physical and with proper training and preparation, a summit is an attainable goal

Climbing past the Heart in Avalanche Gulch

Avalanche Gulch The John Muir Route is the most direct route up the mountain, and for that reason the most popular. “The Gulch” is best climbed with plenty of snow; generally May-July. This route is best for all levels of climbers from novice to advanced. Access is via the Bunny Flat trail-head at 6,950′. We offer this climb in itineraries from 2-4 days. Our 3 day “Expedition Style Summit Climb” is our most popular climb and a great introduction to alpine climbing and mountaineering.

The West Face route from Hidden Valley base camp

The West Face Mt. Shasta’s southwest side holds a high mountain cirque and one of Shasta’s most beautiful base camp’s; Hidden Valley. This is a great alternative to the regular Avalanche Gulch route with the same technical challenge yet far fewer climbers. This climb provides a more Wilderness experience and our base-camp in Hidden Valley (9,200′) is a fantastic location to make our summit bid. The route’s difficulties are moderate and it serves up an aesthetic and stunning experience for all levels of climbers. Conditions for a summit attempt are best May-July or later in a good snow year like this. This is also the route we often select for a ski or snowboard descent ; the fall line drops nearly 4,000′ uninterrupted feet from the top of the West Face ~ truly awesome!

Sunrise on the Hotlum-Bolam

Hotlum-Bolam Ridge – Northeast Side Mt. Shasta’s north side is an alpine playground! 8 Glaciers, including California’s largest –  the Whitney Glacier – adorn it’s flanks. The Hotlum-Bolam route is a perfect choice for climbers looking for an introduction to glacier climbing. Due to it’s northerly aspect, the season is later; June-September. Our base camp is perched atop a glacial moraine at 9,400′ and has fresh snow melt flowing through camp with the climbing route directly overhead. The conditions are slightly more challenging than those on the south and west side; yet still a moderate technical difficulty for those in good physical condition. This is an excellent climb for new climbers as part of our 4 day Glacier I Seminar. We also offer 3 day summit climbs for those wanting a scenic and remote climb on Mt. Shasta.

Casaval Ridge in winter

Casaval Ridge This is Mt. Shasta’s winter and early season climb of choice. Stunning, exposed, and steep; this is a route for climbers with previous experience. Casaval Ridge is an undeniably beautiful and challenging alpine climb; a route that divides Shasta’s south side with dramatic rock gendarmes. This route requires ample snow is is best climbed in winter and spring.

Glacier Training on the Hotlum

Hotlum Glacier The Hotlum is, in our consideration, Mt. Shasta’s most visually interesting glacier. A series of ice falls and seracs follow the glacier’s movement. This is a perfect training ground for climbers with bigger aspirations to Mt. Rainier and Denali. We climb and train on the Hotlum as part of our Glacier II and III Seminars. The Hotlum is accessed via the Brewer Creek trailhead and is best July-September.

The Mt. Shasta climb is a great challenge with the potential for great rewards.  Dramatic scenery, rugged terrain, new experiences, and memories to last a lifetime.  Ready for a new adventure!

West Face route from basecamp in Hidden Valley

Summer time and Hidden Valley Basecamp is still buried in snow! The climbing route beckons the team in excellent conditions.

Rich Meyer, Eric Layton, and Pat Bush

SMG guides are some of the best in the industry.   We are fortunate to have such capable individuals who make your trip a most memorable experience.

West Face by headlamp

All of our summit climbs begin by headlamp for the Alpine Start!

Dane Brinkley leads his team on the West Face

Dane’s team nears 11,000′

The summit plateau is a broad bench at 14,000′ before gaining the final summit pinnacle

Climbers cross the summit plateau

The climb challenges are transformed to summit smiles.  Congrats to all the climbers!

Katy is all smiles as she reaches the summit!

Prayer Flags of hope and inspiration fly from the summit of Mt. Shasta

post climb gnosh session!

Many people came together to make this climb a success. Local volunteer porters and businesses rallied to add essential climb details.  The Fifth Season has been catering an amazing post climb breakfast at Horse Camp.  This is quickly becoming a highlight of the trip. Thank you all!

We at SMG once again thank all who participated in this year’s climb.  It was a memorable event that we are honored to be a part of.   Climbing and weather conditions couldn’t have been better and we are inspired by your stories and strength!

The final stretch to the summit

We found a variety of conditions from difficult post-holing on the lower mountain, to smooth and firm cramponing, to a mini lenticular forming that had us concerned until it dissipated and left a perfect summer weather window.

We had teams reach the summit on both Avalanche Gulch and the West Face this week and the climbing couldn’t be better.  Here’s Senior Guide Dane Brinkley leading his rope team as they top out on the West Face at 13,000′

Click here to view the embedded video.

For many climbers, Misery Hill is the final challenge before the 14,179′ summit.  Here’s a great clip of the effort during pretty optimal conditions.   I don’t understand how it gets it’s name!

Click here to view the embedded video.

The climbing season is in full swing, see you on the mountain!

The 2011 Welcome Dinner

An early start from the Bunny Flat Trailhead today 6/21 under a radiating Mt. Shasta.  The weather is mild and the wind has abated.  Tomorrow is going to be a great day to climb!

Shasta Mountain Guides is not only leading this climb as we we have for the last 8 years; we are also fundraising because we believe wholeheartedly in their efforts and mission.  We invite you to join us. Click here to go to our fundraising page

Buttery smooth snow, low to no avalanche hazard, perfect styrofoam crampon conditions. Snow covered rocks and glazed over glaciers.  This is the Shasta we wish for.

Conditions so good that our crew of seasoned professionals is spending their free time exploring and recreating on Shasta’s pristine slopes on their days off.  Enjoy some of their adventures:

SMG Guides ski above Hidden Valley

The coverage and snow quality doesn’t get any better on the mountain.  Hidden Valley is buried in snow and the West Face, Shastina, and Cascade Gulch all look fantastic!

Drew Smith about to ride the right Trinity

There’s so much snow that the Trinity Chutes are calling adventurous skiers and boarders with all-time sliding and riding lines!

The view from Green Butte Ridge

All of the routes accessed from Bunny Flat are in prime shape; Avalanche Gulch, the West Face, Casaval and Sargent’s Ridge.

Weather forecast for the weekend is calling for cooler and windy conditions.  Be prepared for a great adventure!

Hundreds of breast cancer survivors and individuals touched by the disease have participated in ten major mountaineering expeditions through the Breast Cancer Fund’s Climb Against the Odds. The event is both a personal challenge to honor the courage it takes to face breast cancer and a collective effort to support prevention. Click here to visit the Breast Cancer Fund website.