Mt. Shasta Climb Report 5.14.12

We’re still buzzing here at SMG HQ after a fantastic week of climbing and skiing on the Cascade’s most sacred peak. Skiers are absolutely loving the near perfect conditions we’ve enjoyed in this ideal spring weather and summit climbers are finding all the south side routes in excellent shape for their alpine adventure.

Upper Red Banks Mt. Shasta

Upper Red Banks Mt. Shasta

We had several teams on the mountain this weekend and all are reporting total success. Climbers on Casaval Ridge were delighted to climb through the Cat Walk en route to the summit. Skiers found perfect melt-freeze pretty much everywhere while working the aspect to follow the sun. Our West Face teams were happily camped for a scenic and quiet Wilderness experience in Hidden Valley. Personally, I had a great climb up Avalanche Gulch yesterday (Sunday) checking in with our teams and enjoying a classic descent on the east side Konwakiton Glacier.

It truly doesn’t get much better than the current conditions we have. Awesome weather, light winds, and a consolodated snow pack. Do you need any other reasons to pack your bags for Mt. Shasta??

Daron Rahlves leaves a contrail on the West Face

Daron Rahlves leaves a contrail on the West Face

Weekend Report: Ring of Fire Volcano Tour

Mt. Shasta the southern Cascade Volcano, “a skier’s peak” saw a visit by some of skiing’s greatest ambassadors this weekend. Chris Davenport and his rowdy team of Daron Rahlves, Jess McMillan, and Jim Morrison rolled the Spyder tour bus into the Mt. Shasta trailhead and made party. They were here on the “Ring of Fire Volcano Tour” and Sunday May 6th was the Shasta stop.

Mt. Shasta shined bright under bluebird spring skies, and recent snow provided a blank canvas for these pros to show this hack how real skiers do it. Climbing from Thumb Rock to the summit it showed that these guys were here to have fun, and their energy and enthusiasm was contagious. Absolutely perfect weather and climbing conditions certainly helped as they flowed uphill as smoothly as down. We walked on to an empty summit as they spied down on Lassen Peak, the day prior’s objective; and Mt. McLaughlin, the next day’s destination. Their goals are ambitious, to climb and ski 14 peaks in 18 days. Although if any one can do it, this crew fueled by Red Bull and Whole Foods, certainly can Get It Done!

Mt. Shasta Summit with Jess, D., Jim, Dav

Mt. Shasta Summit with Jess, D., Jim, Dav

Once we spent a few minutes on the summit, the transition to the ski descent was made and in pure alpinist form, Dav and Rahlves dropped in from the rime covered top. Once the summit cone was negogiated, we chose a number of different aspects to find good snow and get a full tour of this classic volcano.

Daron Rahlves and Chris Davenport Mt. Shasta East Face

Daron Rahlves and Chris Davenport Mt. Shasta East Face

My local’s beta on the ski descent when all looks miserable on Misery Hill for skiing, look to the East Face for better snow conditions. Once again, smooth wind buff chalk was found and I had front row center court to view skiing’s legends make a Shasta ski descent.

Chris Davenport Mt. Shasta East Face

Chris Davenport Mt. Shasta East Face

Dav wanted to complete a big loop so we dropped onto the upper east face before wrapping back around to ski the complete West Face route to Hidden Valley. The top of the route ended up having some of the best snow quaility, along with big views, and following ripping skiers, it was a highlight of the day.

West Face approach

West Face approach

The day was cooler at the upper elevations and rather than the typical spring corn, we found a mix of chalk, wind buffed smooth and carve-able, some mid elevation wind effected, and lower down finally creamy corn into Giddy Giddy Gulch. As is typical on a 7,000′ ski descent, we can expect to find at least as many snow types on the way down.

 

 

D., Jess, Dav top of the West Face Mt. Shasta

D., Jess, Dav top of the West Face Mt. Shasta

It was a great honor to share this experience with such a solid crew and inspiring team. And Mt. Shasta was the real star shining bright on a glorious spring day. I’m stoked that these guys found great success on Shasta, and Daron even quoted that his trip last summer on Shasta provided 4,000′ of the best non-stop run of my life” Yeah, well the Hahnenkamm is only like 2,800′…Great adventures for everyone and another memorable day in the mountains with friends old and new. Thanks y’all and good luck!

 

 

Dawn Patrol and Mt. Shasta Current Conditions

We watch the weather forecasts with a finely tuned mix of optimism and reality. One of our all-time favorite Mt. Shasta experiences is to be on the mountain with a clearing front and building high pressure. This week’s weather brought a small system through which dropped some sweet spring snow. Light winds and breaking clouds greeted those willing to get an early jump on the post storm north winds and warming sun.

Mt. Shasta 5.4.12

Mt. Shasta 5.4.12

Given these conditions, I awoke long before my 4:00am alarm. Ski excitement along with 4 summit trips departing today had me ready for the day’s adventures. Up to the trailhead in the dark and uncertainty. How much new snow? Will there be a whiteout above treeline? Will the winds already be blasting? All my concerns were unrealized as it turned out to be one of those treasured Spring mornings; 6-8″ new snow at 10,000′ and not a single track or footprint on the entire south side.

Lake Helen

Lake Helen

I arrived at a very cold Lake Helen and quickly transitioned to downhill mode. A completely empty Lake Helen, winter temps, and perfect hero-snow ski conditions were awesome. Guides and climbers would be meeting in a couple hours and I had 3,500 of wind buffed pow to shred!

The current skiing and climbing conditions are as good as they get. It looks like there may be a north wind blowing on Saturday, but Sunday is looking pretty decent. We have some new snow and potential wind deposition. Be cautious of the warming temps expected this weekend on steep southeast aspects. There could be some rime ice hazard shedding from the Red Banks and possibly lingering storm slabs up high on steeper south east slopes, use good mountain judgement and have great fun!

Ski Avalanche Gulch

Ski Avalanche Gulch

SMG Guide Training weekend and season launch!

SMG Guide Training

SMG Guide Training

Under perfect spring weather, the crew at Shasta Mountain Guides came together for the first training of the season as well as another successful climb on Mt. Shasta’s ultimate alpine climb; Casaval Ridge. Dave Miller, SMG’s Technical Director and fully certified AMGA/UIAGM/IFMGA International Guide led the technical aspects of the training along our do-it-all Special Operations man Rich Meyer.

Guides travelled from Utah, Colorado, Montana, New Mexico, Oregon, and California to prepare for another stellar season on this Cascade peak.  Stressing our priorities of safety, fun, and goal completion. We learned, laughed, and reveled in the awesome weather and snow conditions.

Guide Training

Tools of the trade

We are very proud of the diverse skills of our guides and most importantly the easy going nature of our staff. Our goals are to provide the highest quality climbs, trips, and services on Mt. Shasta and this is achieved through the thoughtful care of our guides; each and every one a rock star! Safety is clearly our highest priority, but also quality teaching, excellent organic meals, and true comraderie is what makes our trips special.

We also remember to focus on the fun and pure enjoyment that mountain travel provides. The current climbing and ski conditions are epic! We invite you to see for yourself.

Rich Meyer shreds at Guide Training

Rich Meyer shreds at Guide Training

 

Casaval Ridge summit and ski mountaineering; Spring is here!

Climbing Casaval Ridge

Climbing Casaval Ridge

To everyone’s great joy (and relief!) March did indeed deliver with massive snow quantities. April continued in a wet pattern and suddenly we’re back to a normal snowpack! This is great news for everyone and we’re looking at fantastic conditions on the mountain currently and well into the summer months.

Conditions so good that we (Chris, Dane, Matt, and Zeb) had to take advantage of the window of excellent weather by climbing Casaval Ridge and skiing the West Face this past Sunday. Near perfect cramponing up the ridge led to being rocked by winds from Misery Hill to the summit, not uncommon in April! At one point the skis on our packs were acting as sails and made for an assisted trek across the summit plateau!

West Face Ski Descent

West Face Ski Descent

We chose to ski the West Face as it was more protected from the incessant south east winds on the upper mountain and it’s such a fun line with nearly a 4,000′ fall line ski. The Trinity Chutes and East side descents looked great as well, just too firm on this day. We found super smooth and carveable snow from the top entrance of the West Face Gully. The snow continued to soften as we descended and made for fun turns all the way to Hidden Valley. The West side is looking great, with lots of snow on the route and in basecamp.

 

Casaval Ridge Mt. Shasta

Casaval Ridge Mt. Shasta

There’s over 10 feet of snow at Bunny Flat trailhead and more expected this week. After this weekend’s blast of heat; a good freeze and new snow will give a great boost to the snowpack and will continue to improve conditions for a climb and/or ski.

With the current conditions and weather forecast, all of our scheduled climbs in May will be in excellent condition. Especially for Casaval Ridge and skiers, early is better for these objectives! We even have a couple spots on this weekend’s Casaval ridge climb. We’re super excited about the start to the season; solid snow pack, returning guide staff, and awesome spring weather!

 

Welcome Spring with great snow conditions!

Green Butte Ridge

Green Butte Ridge

It was a week to climb the ridges. With small systems bringing us regular snow fall, we had to carefully watch the forecast and gamble a bit on getting into the alpine zone. Patience paid off and the rewards were near perfect powder skiing! The key this week was relatively light winds at the mid elevations. This laid a smooth, even blanket of Cascade powder and made for the best turns of the season! Taking advantage of the new snow, I was able to try the new Black Diamond Amperages in their intended element and had some of the most fun ever sliding on snow. Modern gear and designs are increasing the fun factor immensely, check it out!

Casaval Ridge on 3.23.12

Casaval Ridge on 3.23.12

As we would expect this season, Mother Nature completely disregarded the change to Spring and brought cool temps and snow to the mountain this week. We’re close to about 60% of normal for the snowpack this year. With another Winter storm advisory today, the hopes are for a continued wet pattern for the Spring. We’re encouraged by these conditions and are looking forward to a fun, and perhaps earlier climbing season.

We’ve had a great week of ski touring and Avalanche Courses. Rich and Dane completed our final AIARE Level I and Chris finished up a Level I with the Lassen National Park Ski Patrol. With regular new snow fall, it made for excellent conditions for the class and estatic skiers in the backcountry.

Casaval Ridge

Casaval Ridge

 

Thoughts are slowly starting to think of summit climbs and descents from the upper mountain. We’re still in a winter weather pattern and may focus on the skiing the mid and lower mountain  for a few more weeks. Until then; Casaval, Green Butte, the Middle Moraines, etc. are all holding some of the best conditions of the season. Call or email for details!

Climb Mt. Shasta REI Store Presentations

Attention San Francisco/Bay Area and  Sacramento area climbers. SMG Directors Chris and Jenn Carr will be at numerous REI stores for an informative and inspiring photo presentation and discussion. With combined over 200 summits, Chris and Jenn will answer your questions and help you prepare for a successful summit climb.

In this digital presentation, we will discuss the major routes on this majestic peak, including Avalanche Gulch, Casaval Ridge, Sargeant’s Ridge, Hotlum Glacier, the West Face, and more. We’ll share our expertise on mountaineering gear and technique, best times to climb, U.S. Forest Service regulations, mountain weather, and snow conditions. Learn what it takes to make a safe and successful summit climb from someone who has climbed, skied, and guided on the mountain for 30 years.

Tuesday, March 27 REI Marina

Wednesday, March 28 REI San Carlos

Thursday, March 29 REI Dublin

Tuesday, April 10th REI Roseville

Wednesday, April 11th REI Sacramento

Thursday, April 12th REI Folsom

Tuesday, April 24th REI Saratoga

Wednesday, April 25th REI San Francisco

Thursday April 26th REI Berkeley

 

 

Mid Winter update from the Mountain

Mt. Shasta

Mt. Shasta

The Winter of 2012 continues to bring more unseasonable weather to the mountain and surrounding hills. Shallow snowpacks, sunny days, and storms brushing us by to the north have been the norm for the season thus far. What’s a powder skier to do? And more, what does this mean for the upcoming climbing season on Mt. Shasta?

As any true outdoor enthusiast, the answer to the first question is easy; you just gotta be optimistic and hope, pray, dance, whatever it takes that the winter will return, and return with a vengeance for a long and abundant stay! Hey and look a Winter Storm Advisory is back on the radar this week! I’m calling Wednesday as the day to call in sick and wax the boards for the first pow day in weeks!

My optimism is fueled with data, the National Weather Service issued an interesting report last week that the Sacramento Bee reported on:

Green Butte ski tour

Green Butte ski tour

“There’s strong historical evidence that Sacramento’s dry February could be followed by a wet March. The National Weather Service noted Friday on its website that since 1878 in Sacramento there have been 25 months of February with an inch or less of rain. The following March in 23 of those 25 cases was wetter than usual. The average March precipitation following the dry months of February was 2.54 inches, forecasters reported”

In Mt. Shasta, for the month of February, we have received .93″. So maybe February’s lack of white stuff will bring on March’s wicked side.  Since September 1st, we have received 38% of our normal precipitation. For 2012, the city of Mt. Shasta stands at 47% normal precipitation.  Grim numbers, but plenty of time left to for winter fun.

Broadway ski tour

Broadway ski tour

So, how should we be considering this snow pack will effect the 2012 climbing season? Even in light years, May and early June will still have excellent climbing conditions on all routes, including the south side climbs. If we continue in this pattern, we will shorten the south side climbing season in favor of more favorable routes on the North and East side. We expect great climbing on the Glacier routes through July and August. It really is too early to predict how the remainder of the season will shape up, but a good bet is to plan an earlier climb. May-June for South and West Side and July-August for North side routes.

This is an excellent winter to take that Level I Avalanche Seminar you’ve been putting off. SMG is an accredited AIARE Avalanche Course provider and we have one more LI date for the this year. March 16-18 here in Mt. Shasta, contact us for details. A shallow snowpack is a dangerous snowpack and with numerous trajedies being reported this year, it is irresponsible to head into the backcountry without the proper equipment and training.

Let’s not forget that even in low snow years, the ski touring, hiking, climbing and other outdoor recreation is exceptional and we at SMG are getting out and enjoying the absolute beauty of the place we call home. Please check in with any questions or comments at all, we always enjoy hearing from our friends!

Have you seen SMG’s North side Hotlum-Bolam climb profiled as one of Outside Magazine’s “Life-Changing Adventure Trips”? Come check out what all the attention is about and prepare to be amazed!

See you on the mountain!

Waiting on Winter 2012

Trail to Horse Camp

Trail to Horse Camp

As we roll into the new year, we’re still looking for some good storms to get us into the backcountry ski season. Finally the weather forecasts are starting to show an end to high pressure and the welcoming of wet and winter weather starting next week. NOAA has issued a special weather statement indicating a return to more seasonal conditions. A collective sigh of relief was heard from the BC community in Mt. Shasta! We were still receiving snow in town last June; so really winter just barely ended and we’re certainly expecting to get back to a deep base soon. The Shasta snow machine can turn on and get us right back to normal for skiing as well as the summer climbing season. There is still plenty of time to enjoy the skiing and boarding in 2012!

The mild and stable weather has made for fairly decent climbing conditions and Senior Guide Keith Potts made a successful winter ascent and lead a climber from New Zealand last week. We’ve had enough new snow to smooth the upper mountain and it looks more like July than January, although temps have been cold and at times windy.

In the meantime there’s been sunshine for hiking, the ice skating on the backcountry lakes has been all time, and there’s even some steeper ice for the alpinists and their ice tools. We’ll be closely watching the weather models and will be out on skis as soon as we’re able! Give us a call or email with any questions at all, we are always happy to help you plan your Mt. Shasta adventure!

 

 

2012 Climb Mt Shasta dates and schedule

Mt. Shasta winter conditions

 

With the La Nina forecast and early indications looking like another big winter, we are extremely excited about the upcoming climbing and ski season on Mt. Shasta. Early October delivered new snow and November has started with a winter storm advisory! Yippee! We are expecting nothing less than stellar conditions this year. If you’ve had a Shasta climb on your bucket list, it’s time to check it off! Call or email for more details or just to chat; we love what we do and are happy to help in any way!

Check out the website for dates, fees, and scheduled programs on California’s most breathtaking peak. We hope that you can join us!